NdW 01|17: Lagavulin, Glen Scotia, Glenfarclas, BenRiach, SMWS
Die Neuankündigungen gehen wieder los und gleich in der ersten Woche sind wieder interessante Abfüllungen dabei. Allen voran eine weitere Sonderabfüllung von Lagavulin (1991) zum 200-jährige, die man nur mit Losglück kaufen kann. Der Glen Scotia jetzt ohne Farbstoff. Je eine Sonderabfüllung von Glenfarclas wie von BenRiach. Und die SMWS stellt im Januar gleich 16 neue Single Casks vor.
- Lagavulin, 1991, 24yo, Charity Bottling, 52.7%, 522 Flaschen, 1.494.- GBP
- Glen Scotia, Victoriana, 51.5%, ncf, nca, ca. 83.- EUR
- Glenfarclas, 2008/2016, #2123/#2978, 60.2%, CS, ncf, nca, 619 Flaschen, UVP 64,90 EUR
- Benriach, 2005/2016, 11yo, Cask #5785, 54.4%, ncf, nca, 548 Flaschen, UVP 89,90 EUR
- SMWS Januar Outturn, 16 Single Cask Abfüllungen
ncf = no chill-filtration (keine Kältefiltration), nca = no color added (ohne Zusatz von Zuckerkulör), CS = Cask Strength (Fassstärke)
Tasting Notes und weitere Informationen
Lagavulin
Da mit einer hohen Nachfrage, trotz dem hohen Preis, gerechnet wird, kann man diese Flasche nicht einfach kaufen, sondern muss an einer Verlosung teilnehmen. Aus dem Erlös der Flasche werden allerdings verschiedene Organisationen unterstützt. Wer also das nötige Kleingeld übrig hat: gerne kaufen!
Original Tasting Notes:
- Nose: Instant and insistent, yet remarkably light. Charred oak timbers, sawdust and voluptuous, mature, estery fruit are backed by subtle milk chocolate and vanilla. With agitation, a faintly acetic recollection of grainy new make and the characteristic Lagavulin note of raw newsprint, developing burnt caramel, subtle spent match and a slight sapid, earthy, dampness. Later, a trace of ripe red apple and plum and an appetising suggestion of smoked fish dressed in appley olive oil. Transformed by water: Fresh, sugary notes of candied peel, marzipan and royal icing; then the subtle sweet note of maple smoked foods. Later, honeyed with a trace of dark chocolate. Clean and detailed throughout.
- Palate: Hot and sweet. A momentary, searing, woody dryness; then calmer with emollient, sweetly mentholic, chocolate notes and comforting honey underscored by a subtle chilli-like heat. An faint sawdust base note gives way to a glorious, rising bittersweet, charred, astringency in the mid-palate, acquiring notes of gritty cocoa against an espresso background into the finish. Beautifully opened by water: succulent, sweet, warming, spicy notes are offset by a well judged balancing ripe fruit acidity. Then drier as more cocoa, crystallised ginger and a little peppermint leads to late silky, tongue coating, tannins.
- Finish: Gentle, well balanced and satisfying. Quietly persistent with tart, red berry notes, a little cedar and a spicy, smoky ginger warmth. Leaves the palate minty, with a wonderful fruity coffee note and a sprinkling of salt. Fresh throughout, leaving the breath spicy and smoky.
Glen Scotia
Den Glen Scotia gibt es schon länger auf dem Markt, aber die neue Abfüllung trägt den Zusatz „ohne Farbstoff„.
Aus der Pressemitteilung: „Lagerung in amerikanischen Eichenfässern. Die abschließende Lagerung erfolgt in Eichenfässern, die vorher nochmals ausgebrannt werden. Beim Verkohlen – auch Charring genannt – bildet sich eine Kohleschicht an der Fassoberfläche. In diese rissige Kohleschicht dringt der Whisky leichter ein als in unverkohltes Eichenholz und nimmt so wesentlich mehr Aromastoffe des Fasses auf. Abfüllung „straight from the cask“ · 51,5° proof.“
Original Tasting Notes:
- Nose: An elegant nose with hints of oak driving the bouquet. Interesting creme brulee notes leading to generous caramelised fruits and finally polished oak.
- Palate: Sweet and concentrated start with some jammy blackcurrant fruitiness. A big mid palate. Typical tightening towards the back palate. Becomes more austere with water.
- Finish: Clean and initially sweet. Then green bean, with cocoa characteristic.
Glenfarclas
Aus der Pressemitteilung: „Beim Glenfarclas handelt es sich um ein Cuvée aus zwei Oloroso Sherry Hogsheads der Fassnummern #2123 und #2978.
Das Ergebnis ist ein kräftiger sowie komplexer Single Malt Whisky mit deutlichen Aromen von dunklen Früchten, Marzipan und Gewürzen. In der Nase ist der Glenfarclas wunderbar süß und kräftig. Im Mund zeigen sich deutliche Aromen von Honig, Mandel, Gewürzen, Rosine und dunklen Früchten. Das Finish ist langanhaltend, wärmend und trocken mit etwas Ingwer und einer Eichennote im Abgang.“
Benriach
Aus der Pressemitteilung: „Der Benriach ist eine Single Cask Abfüllung eines PX Sherry Puncheons. Destilliert wurde dieser am 18.10.2005 und abgefüllt im November 2016.
Im Geschmack zeigt sich deutlich, dass dieser Whisky ausschließlich im PX Puncheon gereift ist, denn er offenbart wunderbare runde Sherry-Noten. So zeigen sich in der Nase Noten von Mandeln, Rosinen, Honig und warmem Toastbrot. Auf der Zunge kommen Pfeffer und Ingwer-Noten gut durch, die dann langsam zu dunklen Früchten, Milchschokolade und leichten Kaffee-Noten übergehen. Im Finish hält sich lange die Süße und zum Ende hin kommt die Eiche nochmal durch.“
SMWS
Bis zum nächsten „Outturn“ findet Ihr die Flaschen Online bei der SMWS: latest-outturn.
- 11.32 Cirque de Saveur, 8yo, 252 Flaschen, 61,6%, 48.- GBP – Tomatin
An acrobatic spectacular, as fresh and vibrant aromas of cut grass, pomegranate and soft peach danced in the air high above us. Down below at audience level sweet butter pastry, spicy cardamom and Werther’s Originals provided the ringside entertainment. Then a sensational demonstration of salted toffee and cinnamon with a curious note of freshly cleaned woolly jumper with floral hints from the washing powder. Following a lively and exuberant burst of new wood the grand finale featured very dark chocolate and sticky toffee pudding as our senses jumped to their feet for a rapturous standing ovation.
1st fill barrel, Jahrgang: 2008 | Region: Highland Northern - 121.96 Afternoon cream tea, 16yo, 168 Flaschen, 53%, 66.10 GBP – Isle of Arran
A spring-like freshness of washed linen blowing in the breeze with fragrant rose bushes, apple blossom and elderflower cordial. Then sweetness from white chocolate buttons, praline chocolates, prune and Armagnac tart and coconut ice cream with a new oak woodiness of the lolly stick. Fruit followed with nectarines, stewed apples, lemon peel, fruit cocktails with bitters and fresh strawberries with clotted cream and scones. The chewy finish was of clean oak and cinnamon powder spice. Following 15 years in an ex-Bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a virgin oak hogshead for the remainder of its maturation. Virgin oak hogshead, heavy toast/medium char, Jahrgang: 2000 | Region: Highland Island - 29.197 Stairway to your imagination, 21yo, 186 Flaschen, 58,2%, 161.70 GBP – Laphroaig
A sunny afternoon and we were sitting in deck chairs on a pebble beach with the salty sea breeze, carrying the tiniest thread of peat smoke, keeping the temperature comfortable. The children were exploring rock pools and with a good book and a good dram something magical could happen. A wonderful gush of sweet peat flavours reverberated in our mouths. Combine this with a dash of lime juice and a splash of honey, soy and lemon glaze over roast chicken and you are there. Diluted; sea trout, samphire and spicy lemon shrimps with a Moroccan mint tea – just lose yourself in a daydream.
Refill barrel, Jahrgang: 1995 | Region: Islay - 35.156 A sweet and cereal snogfest, 14yo, 186 Flaschen, 60,2%, 53.50 GBP – Glen Moray
The nose was a sweet and cereal snogfest – maple syrup granola bars, crunchy nut cornflakes, honey on toast, sticky toffee pudding and strawberry jam on croissants. The palate was intensely sweet, with rich honey, pain au chocolat, Nutella on toast and Wispa Gold – maybe also some coconut and slightly more tart fruits than the nose. The reduced nose was still sweet (now including crème caramel) – but it also found earthier notes of hessian, wood and autumn leaves. The reduced palate was both sweet and tart – wine gums, tinned fruit salad – overall an impressive impact – sweet, but sufficiently sinewy to lend interest. 1st fill barrel, Jahrgang: 2001 | Region: Speyside Lossie - 35.178 The dunnage bakehouse, 13yo, 294 Flaschen, 58,3%, 59.- GBP – Glen Moray
The old dunnage warehouse had been converted, in this instance, into a makeshift bakery and the air was thick with the yummy ingredients for rich fruitcakes. Hessian sacks had been stacked containing dried figs, raisons, sultanas, candied peel and sticky prunes whilst a sweet spice wafted by as hot cross buns baked in the oven. The smell of rich tea came from sacks of rooibos and peppermint tea and someone was chopping fresh ginger for sticky ginger cake topped with Demerara sugar. An intense sweetness of brittle toffee, butterscotch and giant pretzels complimented the tartness of redcurrants, cranberries and the greenness of a Christmas wreath.
1st fill gin hogshead, Jahrgang: 2002 | Region: Speyside Lossie - 36.113 Sawmill in a summer meadow, 13yo, 234 Flaschen, 57,9%, 56.20 GBP – Benrinnes
We agreed the nose was complex – sweet vanilla and liquorice bullets, strawberry smoothie and dusty lemon sweets; also some herbal elements and a sawmill situated in a summer meadow. The palate was sweet but sharp (Moffat toffees, icing sugar on green apples, white pepper on banana custard) with spicy heat (sweet chilli crisps, fiery gobstoppers, cinnamon, liquorice). The reduced nose was a more straightforward confectionery of aromas (jelly babies, lucky bags, dolly mixtures, chocolate). The reduced palate had lost some of its heat – now fruity, sweet and moreish (jammy dodgers, gomme syrup, strawberry jam) with light spices tingling the finish.
1st fill barrel, Jahrgang: 2003 | Region: Speyside Spey - 41.84 Laundry lady lets hair down, 11yo, 210 Flaschen, 60,6%, 49.10 GBP – Dailuaine
The nose evoked old-fashioned lemonade and baked Alaska – then an identikit image emerged of a suntan-lotioned lady in a Hawaiian grass skirt, sipping champagne while hanging out the laundry. The palate started out quite tropical and fruity – red Ribena ice lollies, raspberry sauce over ice-cream and blue Slush Puppy, before shifting to pineapple cake, white wine and bitter lemon. The reduced nose cheered us with apple strudel and pear flan on a wooden board, served with Blooming Marvellous tea. The palate was nicey, nicey, sweet and spicy – kiwi, green apple, citrus and Demerara with hints of wood and eastern spice. 1st fill barrel, Jahrgang: 2005 | Region: Speyside Spey - 46.47 Mexican Breakfast, 14yo, 600 Flaschen, 59,8%, 57.70 GBP – Glenlossie
We started off with a Mexican breakfast; chilli tomato stew with onions, garlic and bay leaves, fried eggs and cheese all wrapped in lightly fried corn tortillas and our ‘huevos rancheros’ was ready. In the taste we added fresh coriander leaves, ginger and turmeric and a semi- sweet hot chilli sauce. With a drop of water, we remembered what we drank last night before we went to bed, a clove-y, gingery and cinnamon-y liqueur and a splash of Fernet Branca. After 13 years in an Oloroso sherry butt, we transferred this whisky directly into a 1st fill Pedro Ximenez butt for the remainder of its maturation.
1st fill Pedro Ximenez butt, Jahrgang: 2002 | Region: Speyside Lossie - 55.43 In the shade of the fruit tree, 15yo, 192 Flaschen, 57,6%, 62.30 GBP – Brackla
It was a lazy day in the garden as we relaxed on the freshly cut grass, sheltering from the warming sun in the shade of the green apple and eucalyptus trees. To one side was a colourful flowerbed accompanied by a small stream that trickled over large pebbles, whilst to the other grew a comprehensive herb garden. We set about unpacking juicy pears, mango, ripe pineapple and candied red apples to go with spiced fruitcake topped with vanilla butter icing and dusty white icing sugar. More sweeties followed with candied grapes, milk chocolate and meringue with vanilla custard and orange blossom honey.
2nd fill Sauternes hogshead, Jahrgang: 2000 | Region: Speyside Findhorn - 66.94 Fire-roasted Sweet Potato, 11yo, 150 Flaschen, 60,2%, 55.- GBP – Ardmore
Delicate sweet peat smoke intermingled with salty sea air like a beach campfire barbequing soy-braised pork bellies as well as fire-roasted garlic and herb sweet potatoes. As the sun dipped into the ocean with the sound of a single guitar being played it was impossible not to start dreaming. Back to reality and on the palate the initial impact was that of dry smoke which was quickly replaced by the burnt sweetness of grilled fruit skewers with a spicy maple cumin glaze. Diluted; it felt like a warm summer’s breeze had set in and we enjoyed grilled honeydew wedges with lime sugar.
Refill hogshead, Jahrgang: 2005 | Region: Highland Eastern - 7.158 All fired up, 11yo, 186 Flaschen, 61,3%, 53.10 GBP – Longmorn
We found ourselves in the kitchen and something’s cooking or baking; Chinese spare ribs and baked ham with a brown-sugar honey glaze, and whilst waiting a bottle of Malmsey Madeira wine was opened. To taste, it got even hotter in the kitchen with flambé bananas in orange liqueur and brandy and we now needed a hoppy/malty Red Ale to quench our thirst. On adding water we stepped outside and checked on the bacon and pineapple cubes which were in a smoker charged with maple flavoured wood chips as we were preparing a grilled pineapple salsa using red onions, cilantro and lime juice.
1st fill barrel, Jahrgang: 2004 | Region: Speyside Lossie - 7.160 Ending a perfect day, 23yo, 204 Flaschen, 55,5%, 96.10 GBP – Longmorn
How about this for a picture; sitting in a comfortable leather chair on a patio, overlooking a wildflower meadow on a late spring afternoon smoking a cigar and your best friend, a Labrador, lying content at your feet. We were eating dark chocolate eclairs accompanied by an Affogato coffee with ice cream and a dash of Frangelico hazelnut liqueur. With a drop of water late sunrays were beaming through the clouds and we snuggled down under a soft cashmere blanket to enjoy a summer fruit salad with whipped cream, port poached pears and a glass of intense aromatic spiced Australian Shiraz wine.
Refill barrel, Jahrgang: 1993 | Region: Speyside Lossie - 73.80 Trip the light fantastic, 14yo, 210 Flaschen, 59,3%, 57.- GBP – Aultmore
The aromas danced around the room in delicate steps of orange blossom, rose petals and mandarin before turning to a more autumnal twirl of dried fruits, banana bread and candied ginger. The palate followed with a warming and chewy spice that seemed to envelop the entire body in a comforting blanket of deliciousness. Sweet and creamy custard appeared with sticky homemade blackcurrant jam, fresh brambles, dried prunes and over-ripe pineapple served on a new oak platter. After spending 13 years in an ex-Bourbon hogshead it spent the remainder of its maturation in a Virgin oak hogshead.
Virgin oak hogshead, heavy toast/medium char, Jahrgang: 2002 | Region: Speyside Deveron - 85.45 The lemon rocket ship, 8yo, 210 Flaschen, 61,8%, 44.70 GBP – Glen Elgin
The countdown had begun as we seated ourselves onboard the giant lemon rocket ship with marshmallow seats and dials made of yellow wine gums. A car air freshener hung from the rear view mirror and our destination was plotted in marker pen on a large whiteboard. The rocket had been fuelled with bitter lemon and quality tonic water with cooling menthol and spearmint to prevent overheating. Holding the honeycomb and chocolate steering controls the countdown reached zero and then blast off! With a chilli kick the giant lemon soared into the stratosphere, destination… the twin planets of rhubarb and custard.
1st fill barrel, Jahrgang: 2007 | Region: Speyside Lossie - 9.114 Manzana Verde Daiquiri, 23yo, 138 Flaschen, 50,6%, 94.50 GBP – Glen Grant
Fairly restrained, almost shy aromas were peeking out of the glass but give it time, become acquainted, and you will realise there is a lot to discover. The scent of caramelised oranges and lemons were followed by subtle but nevertheless deep notes of chocolate covered caramel apples and spiced plum crumble with plum brandy custard. The taste neat was a balance of wood spiciness and dryness but at the same time a sweet fruitiness like a pineapple & Marie biscuits dessert. Diluted, plenty of fruit; apples, peaches and mangos, whilst on the palate a well prepared Manzana Verde Daiquiri.
Refill barrel, Jahrgang: 1992 | Region: Speyside Spey - G7.12 Thumbs up all round, 23yo, 198 Flaschen, 58,6%, 84,1.- GBP – Girvan
Satisfyingly sweet and splendidly spicy, the panel gave a unanimous thumbs up. With fragrant peardrops, butterscotch popcorn and cream soda there wasn’t anything not to like. Then heaps of ripe apples stewing with spicy cinnamon and Demerara sugar. Fresh oak sawdust came to the fore with light tones of yacht varnish and sweet shortcrust pastry with the sticky fruitiness of an apricot Danish. Water released more spice and a wave of pink roses and carnations, rounded by fine wood tannins on the finish. After spending 22 years in a refill hogshead it was transferred to a 2nd fill Sauternes hogshead for the remainder of its maturation. 2nd fill Sauternes hogshead, Jahrgang: 1992 | Region: Lowland